It's one of the last nights of Autumn, we are in December and there remain only a couple of days before the arrival of winter in Portugal. The forecast for the end of the week are of a giant swell, rain and a crazy wind!
While I drink a hot coffee at home, I look at my longboard and talk with my home companion ... "I feel like there's something fun coming on the last two days of sun with this sweet swell on the Portuguese coast" ... but she does not respond. Is a turtle!
The moon is full and the night is cold, but the most difficult is: Call to my amigo Diogo Appleton.
The gods are with me and the little one answered first call! After about 5 rad minutes of conversation analyzing the forecast, we saw and feel that before the storm, we have 1 to 2 hours of surfing a day in this honey swell that end of the fall.
Believing that Diogo arrived at 6:30am in the morning with 7° degrees on the beach is a ultramarine mission, but the little one is grown as his surf during this hour and half of two sunny days.. yes, the waves just worked even in this short period of half tide!
Pure, clean, smooth and addictive is the surf that I see through the lens of my camera and makes me warm in the cold water of our Atlantic Ocean.
In the midst of gentle and mysterious steps sliding the waves into your log, joined us your family, creating a fearsome "gang" of good vibes, shared waves and create a steady energy in the water!
Now, come the storm and the harsh winter.
Words & Photography x Filipe Neto